How to make Riel's borscht at home
This borscht was made using Riel chef Ryan Lachaine's recipe.
This borscht was made using Riel chef Ryan Lachaine's recipe.
Photo: Nicholas L. HallBorscht made using Riel chef Ryan Lachaine's recipe
Borscht made using Riel chef Ryan Lachaine's recipe
Photo: Nicholas L. HallIt seems as if there are two diametrically opposed responses to the word "borscht." Some hear it and respond as if you've wrapped them in a blanket and plopped them next to a roaring fire; others recoil like a fang to garlic. For those in the latter camp, I'd suggest that they've just been eating the wrong borscht.
The dish has a reputation for clunky stodginess. It's understandable, in a way. Beets can taste like dirt, and the saturated magenta tones can be a shock. Both of these can be assets, if you understand how to work with them.
Over at Riel restaurant in Montrose, Ryan Lachaine certainly does. His family traces its lineage through the Eastern Bloc, and Lachaine's spin on the dish certainly tastes like a family treasure, though with a few upscale updates. For starters - and key to the success of this version - is the chef's approach to texture.
In "The French Laundry Cookbook," Thomas Keller declares that nothing in his kitchen moves from one vessel to another without first passing through some sort of strainer or filter. Lachaine follows that advice here, passing the cooked, cooled and puréed soup through a chinois (fine-mesh strainer). The resulting soup is liquid satin, elegant and yet still managing to retain every ounce of its rustic charm. The process is a bit tedious, and requires a thorough turn through the blender, but it's worth the extra effort.
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Balance also is critical. The final product still speaks of beets, but it whispers other secrets, too. There's the savory undercurrent of stock, the bright edge of red wine vinegar, the sharp exclamation of dill and the rounded, subtle sweetness of maple. They don't compete, they complement. For a dish with so many strong ingredients, the final product is a surprisingly subtle affair.
Lachaine prefers to let his soup cool overnight before blending, straining and reheating for service. You should at least approach room temperature before attempting the purée; hot liquids can expand in the blender, resulting in an explosion of hot borscht. Hot Borscht Explosion is a better band name than emergency room explanation. Let your soup cool.
Borscht
From Ryan Lachaine, Riel
Time: 30 minutes prep, 1½ hours cook time (plus several hours or overnight to cool soup)
Makes 4-6 portions
3 large beets or two bunches (about 2 pounds), well scrubbed (do not skip)
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 medium onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
¾ cup canned diced tomatoes*
1 bunch fresh dill, tied together with twine
3 cups beef or veal stock**
2 tablespoon maple syrup
3 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 bay leaf
Salt to taste
Dill sprigs, for garnish
Crème fraîche, for garnish
Instructions: Trim tops and bottoms of beets, wrap loosely in aluminum foil and roast at 400 degrees for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the tip of a knife slips in with very little pressure. Cool to a comfortable handling temperature. Rub the skin off with paper towels; you may want to wear food-safe gloves during this step. Dice the peeled beets and set aside.
Heat a medium pot over medium heat, then add oil. Add onion and sauté for 2-3 minutes, until just starting to turn translucent. Add garlic and sauté 1-2 minutes more, being careful not to brown the aromatics.
Increase heat to medium high, then add reserved beets, diced tomatoes and dill. Sauté until the dill wilts and the beet tint all of the onions purple, about 5 minutes. Again, be careful not to brown the aromatics.
Add stock, maple syrup, red wine vinegar and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover and cook until all vegetables are fully tender. Check on it a few times and adjust the heat as necessary; the covered pot will tend to raise the temperature, and you want this to cook gently. It should take 10-15 minutes, 20 at the most.
Once vegetables are tender, remove the soup from the heat and allow to cool. You can do this in a cool spot in your kitchen, elevating the pot on a wire rack to allow air flow. You also can place the pot into a larger bowl filled with ice.
Discard bay leaf and dill. Blend the soup until fully smooth, then strain through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing it through the mesh with a spatula. Taste and adjust for seasoning.
Reheat, and serve garnished with a dollop of crème fraîche, a sprig of dill and, if you're feeling jaunty, a bit of horseradish.
* This is not quite one 14-ounce can of tomatoes. If the thought of ¼ of a can of leftover tomatoes bothers you, using the whole can will change the dish, but not disastrously.
** Lachaine makes beef stock from scratch, but a good quality store bought beef or veal stock will do in a pinch. I recommend the Stock Options brand, available at Central Market.
Nicholas L. Hall is a food writer in Houston.
http://www.houstonchronicle.com/life/food/article/How-to-make-Riel-s-borscht-at-home-12533294.php
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